An Empire of Leather Goods Still Driven by a Driving Shoe

Shoes and bags, not clothes, are the status symbols of the moment. Think Fendi. Think Gucci. Think Prada.

Think J. P. Tod's, another line of leather goods from Italy that has entered the fashion consciousness much more recently than those venerable brands. Although the Della Valle shoe company was founded 75 years ago by a cobbler named Filippo Della Valle, it took his grandson Diego to build it into an international presence.

It was about 15 years ago that Diego Della Valle came to New York with shoe samples in a trunk and set up a temporary showroom in a hotel room. He spoke not a word of English, but the shoes spoke for themselves, and soon stores like Bergdorf Goodman and Bloomingdale's were selling them.

In 1987, he opened a store and showroom in SoHo for his own shoes and those he manufactured for designers like Gianfranco Ferre and Azzedine Alaia. A small table in the store displayed a driving shoe -- a soft leather moccasin with rubber pebbles on the sole that continued up the heel. He christened it with the American-sounding name J. P. Tod's.

By 1993, the Tod's were so successful, spawning imitations, that they overshadowed the classic Della Valle shoes. The original line was phased out and the driving shoe inspired offshoots. The SoHo store was closed and replaced with one just for J. P. Tod's at 41 East 57th Street. Two years later there was a Tod's on Rodeo Drive to cater to a growing contingent of Hollywood stars like Sharon Stone, Denzel Washington and Michael Douglas who had become customers after having been given pairs.

About two years ago, a J. P. Tod's bag that resembled an elegant leather shopping tote appeared, and soon it was draped over the arms of Catherine Deneuve, Princess Caroline of Monaco, Kristin Scott Thomas and Diana, Princess of Wales (further examples of ''Send it and they will wear it''). The bag, too, soon inspired copies, and other styles were added.