Malt Mission 2009 #350

Glenmorangie Signet
Highland Single Malt Whisky
46% abv
£115
$185 (USD)

In the autumn of 2008, it was hard to be in any whisky nerd conversation, geeky whisky forum, or read whisky magazines without coming across the buzz around Glenmorangie Signet.

Designed by Dr. Bill Lumsden over the past decade, Signet is made with spirit that included some roasted and chocolate barley (refers to the toasting level, not actual chocolate) vatted with mature Gelnmorangie of older vintages. More details of the recipe and cask selection at Whisky Pages. Its name is inspired by the 8th century pict logo on the Cadbol Stone found on distillery property and the packaging is absolutely stunning, in my opinion. Good post on the stone and the whisky at WhiskyViking.

Hearing Dr. Bill talk about the Signet is quite an experience as his excitement for the spirit goes beyond that of a biochemist proud of his test results into the realm of a mad whisky scientist enthusiastically celebrating a successful experiment, in his words, "one of our greatest and most complex creations to date."

I remember drinking this on a boat on the Hudson River, under stars and memorial bars of light from the site of the twin towers, among people relaying stories of where they were that tragic day in September. An inspiring moment with an inspiring dram.

For more distillery info and to see all Glenmorangies had on the mission, click HERE. Cheers for the drop, DB.

TASTING NOTES:

Intimidatingly complex. Rye (the grain, not the spirit), almond oil, pepper, face cream, Japanese seaweed crackers, vintage clothing shops, cocoa powder, kiwi, 3 Musketeers, black bean sauce, pecan pie... I could go on. And will on my own time. Incredibly un-Scotch-y, in a way. I could be convinced that this is some new creation from John Hall's Forty Creek.

Toasty and malty with a complex and punchy array of coffee, mint chocolate, kidney beans, raspberries, pecans, crepes, maple, and more. Gorgeous nutty finish with the balance of oak influences reaching for heaven.

SUMMARY:

Un-traditional, or perhaps more accurately atypical, whisky in every sense and to every sense, and quite exhilarating as a result. A drop of water sweetens the nose but really collapses the delivery on the palate, although it unpacks the tight package of flavour in a most pleasing way.

"Unlike anything released before," reads the press release, and the grand statement is completely true. I have also read Signet referred to as "the dark side of Glenmorangie." Also true. But more than just an impressive whisky, this release is monumental in that it takes our perception of Glenmorangie from Scotland's Favourite Malt Whisky to One of the World's Greatest Malt Whiskies, a key step in markets like Singapore, where this whisky was initially launched, and world-wide. Perfect balance of wise marketing and wonderful whisky-making. If only I could afford a bottle. I imagine the packaging alone, as gorgeous as it is, would put a dent in my wallet... literally; the stopper is even heavier than Dewar's Signature.

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Malt Mission 2009 #349

Glenmorangie Sonnalta
Highland Single Malt Whisky
46% abv
£50
$70 (USD)

You know when you come home and feel like enjoying a whisky but can't find one on your shelf that you fancy? Well this can happen no matter how vast your selection is and it is a phenomenon that blows my little whisky-soaked mind but completely puzzles friends and family. 4, 10, 40, 400 bottles and not a drop to drink. When you get this feeling, I officially welcome you to geek country.

At the beginning of 2009, Glenmorangie announced a new line of "private expressions" to be released. Glenmorangie Sonnalta (meaning "generous") is the first of the series and is only available at selected Duty Free.

For more distillery info and to see all Glenmorangies had on the mission, click HERE.

TASTING NOTES:

Fruity and light in spite of the often weighty influence of Pedro Ximenez casks. Beachy, with the aromas of suntan lotion (coconut, jojoba) and sea air. Chocolate covered raisins, banana chips, apple cider and dessert wine are also wound up with the beautiful Glenmorangie vanilla notes.

Big and initially oily on the palate with cinnamon, pears and apples, with hints of mint and salt as well. Dries out and gets your mouth ready for another sip through a finish of flan and oak. Very appetizing and very quaffable.

SUMMARY:

Light but rich, full but restrained, spicy but wonderfully sweet. An aperitif style sherried malt if ever there was one, but equally well-suited for enjoying al fresco with dessert. How seasonally appropriate...

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Malt Mission 2009 #348

Glemorangie Astar
Highland Single Malt Whisky
57.1% abv
£52
$80 (USD)

Nearly a month since my last post making me the real April Fool. Thanks for your emails and comments of inquiry, concern, and encouragement. The good news is I have been trying some excellent stuff in recent weeks, but the bad news is I have had less and less time to post them on the Malt Mission. So here come three new drops from Glenmorangie. Let's see if I can do it in three days...

Some of you may remember the 2005 (?) Glenmorangie Artisan Cask, a 500ml bottle of Glenmo matured in slow-growth, air seasoned oak from the Ozark mountains. It was a toasty, creamy, vanilla-soaked fruitbowl of a whisky that was loved by those lucky enough to try it.

Launched in late 2008 in the UK and available in the USA in early 2009, The Astar takes its name from the gaelic for "journey", referencing the decade plus experiment with Missouri "designer oak" by Dr. Bill Lumsden, the visionary whisky creator behind Glenmorangie.

For all Glenmorangie had on the mission, click HERE. Tasted with ISM, and his notes appear in quotes.

TASTING NOTES:

Wonderfully fruity, if slightly acetone, with "grapes and pears and fuckloads of them." Baked goods like buttertarts. Spicy with ginger and pepper, sweetened with butterscotch, and toasted with peanuts... and lager.

Sweet, creamy vanilla with more of the pepper but some salty tang as well. Slight skunky notes like some European beers and even bitter near the end at full strength. Leathery books, paper, and tarte tatin.

SUMMARY:

Inder let out a wheeze upon sipping it so I think it is worth noting that this is bottled at cask strength. The nose is gorgeous with all the best elements of quality american oak cask maturation, if having a few hints of youth in the acetone, nailpolish elements noted. Flavourwise, water gets rid of a bitter/acrid flavour that was present at full strength. Unfortunately, the skunky element remains and there simply is no amount of water one can add to mask it. Nonetheless, this liquid is proof that tough, macho whisky can be made without peat or sherry casks. Go try it! I would love to hear your thoughts as I am to date the only person I know who has tried this and not been 100% blown away.

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Malt Mission 2009 #327

Glenmorangie 18yo
'Extremely Rare'
Highland Single Malt Whisky
43% abv
£73
$150 (USD)

It can be easily agreed that a new direction has been undertaken at Glenmorangie since the distillery left family hands (the Macdonalds) in 2004 and was sold to Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessey (66%) and Diageo (34%). However, one cannot discredit the production team under the visionary guidance of Dr. Bill Lumsden (since 1995) that continues to produce one of the world's favourite whiskies while unveiling new unique creations like Glenmorangie Astar and Glenmorangie Signet, both to be tasted on future posts.

And while the packaging has changed (to the annoyance of some stodgy old malt nerds who spend their days trawling whisky fora), it seems that all traditions of production remain in tact at the distillery while Dr. Bill stretches those boundaries for the advancement of the water of life in the 21st century. He was awarded Industry Leader of the Year at the Malt Advocate Awards 2008. The presentation of Signet is easily the best new packaging in 2008. For more Glenmorangie distillery info and to see all expressions had on the Malt Mission, click HERE.

Whatever your opinion might be about the new(-ish) design of the Glenmorangie line of whiskies, you have to agree that this new 18yo (above right) looks WAY better than the old 18yo (below right). But how does it taste?

TASTING NOTES:

Grapes, honey, and really quite nutty. Fresh, almost like fresh mint but weighted with creamy, vanilla-ed oak.

Grapefruit, butterscotch, vanilla and lime. Is that smoke? Something earthy. Then a brief surge of white chocolate, walnuts, and oak. Citrus comes back, with a bold, nearly bitter oak influence. A classy production. Fantastic nose with a drop of water, but the palate thins incredibly.

SUMMARY:

A sexy nose and a seductive ride on the palate. Delicate and estery but somehow distinctly highland. Pour deep and sip slowly.

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Malt Mission 2008 #285

Glenmorangie Nectar d'Or
Highland Single Malt Whisky
46% abv
£39
$77 (USD)

Feels good to have another week done on the mission. It has been a crazy string of weeks since leaving our homes and jobs in London. Staying sane and staying optimistic. Life is great and we have little to complain about. Just watched the news to confirm this: life could be worse.

Can't wait to get to Malt Mission #300. It will happen.

And I learned a lot during this Glenmorangie week. Most of all that Anabel Meikle (Glenmorangie's Sensory Whisky Creator) writes the most psychedelic whisky notes going. They always put you in a place, surround you with stimulae, and make you feel. And, say what you want, but does whisky do any less?

The only expression among the new 'extra-matured' range to come in at a price LOWER than its predecessor, the 15yo Sauternes wood finish, alors, c'est le nectar d'or. Sure, this is a few years younger, but who's counting?

It has been pretty popular (friends in retail have told me) and critically acclaimed since its launch in September 2007. Again, I think the packaging is pretty sleek. Kinda girlie, but whatever.

For more distillery info and to see all Glenmorangies had on the mission click HERE. Tasted with IM and MW.

TASTING NOTES:

Morwenna immediately thought it smelled like honey. Creamy, dairy, strawberries and peach. Farmy, like hay and grass. Fruitbasket, with the wicker. Baked goods, it just keeps going, all sweets all the time. Really lovely.

Candied lemons and croissants. Lime cheesecake. Creamy and very easy to swallow. Wow, now nutty and toasty with persistent sweetness of custard, maple and vanilla.

SUMMARY:

My initial reaction? Oh god, that’s good. My final conclusion? Go with your gut feeling. Might be a bit sweet for some or for some moods, but this is excellent stuff with few comparisons in the wide world of whisky.

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Malt Mission 2008 #284

Glenmorangie Lasanta
Highland Single Malt Whisky
46% abv
£32
$77.30 (CAD)
$70 (USD)

I am not scared to say that Glenmorangie is one of my favourite distilleries. It always tastes great, has friendly and clever folks working in its creation, and is a gorgeous distillery to visit (unless you are old school enough to believe that all distilleries MUST have wooden washbacks to be quality). Additionally, and I have said this before, it is from the area of Scotland north of Inverness between that city and John O' Groats, the region from which I think the greatest whiskies come. It is also relatively unique in using hard water, the mineral rich Tarlogie springs in the production of its spirit (most distilleries use soft water).

This expression replaces the old Sherry Wood Finish (Malt Mission #167) with a name of conspicuous origin that the bottle literature claims is gaelic for "passion and warmth". So, no; not La Santa Sede... although perhaps if Glenmorangie turns from #1 in Scotland it will be the house whisky at the Vatican? And who drinks more, Tam O'Shanter or the Vicar of Christ?

For more distillery info and to see all Glenmorangies had on the mission click HERE.

TASTING NOTES:

Warming and toasty, roasted nuts and toffee. Chocolate, raisins, almonds, and great, rich sweetness.

Sweet, rich and chewy. Cocoa and orange rinds, more raisins and chocolate, with impressions of health food breakfast cereals. Nutty and long finish.

SUMMARY:

Gorgeous Glenmorangie without being drowned by the sherry. Excellent whisky making.

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Malt Mission 2008 #283

Glenmorangie Quinta Ruban
Highland Single Malt Whisky
46% abv
£33
$79.25 (CAD)
$62 (USD)

This is one of the three new Glenmorangies that replaced the old WOOD FINISH range (see them and other Glenmorangies had on the mission HERE). The new line is called EXTRA-MATURED. I have heard folks complain about their new prices, but I simply don't find such whining justifiable. Whisky deserves a premium price, especially premium whisky. Their names and new packaging have also been the victim of much criticism, and on these points, the critics might have a point. Or points. Or whatever.

I like the new bottles. I like the new packaging. Do I like the new liquids? We'll find out over the next few days. Thanks to Annabel et al for sending them along.

TASTING NOTES:

Oranges, apricot, sweet summery fruit, very lively. Perfumy, too, like sandalwood and fruity shampoo.

Hard and a little bit citrus-y, verging on acidic, but there is a fluffy element like marshmallows or meringue that balance those impressions. So hard but velvety. Strange. Waxy with a bit of white pepper with candied orange. Long fresh finish, peppery or minty.

SUMMARY:

Not one to nose too deeply, this one prickles according to my friends IM and MW with whom I tasted this whisky. I liked the higher abv (the old expressions were 43% and chill-filtered). Very pleasant, complex, challenging, but I have had this in different situations and liked it much more than I did at this particular tasting. Still a cool box, I think, whatever my mood.

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Malt Mission 2008 #282

Glenmorangie Golden Rum Cask
Highland Single Malt Whisky
40%
£30

In an airport and am sad to report that I just ate a McD's Angus burger... and am (rightfully?) suffering for my indulgence.

This Glenmorangie Golden Rum Cask 12yo is a not-often-seen bottle that is also bottled at an unusual age for Glenmorangie. I got it at a shelf-clearing sale at Sainsbury's, a British supermarket chain for which Jamie Oliver urges us to "try something new". Again, if that new thing is going to be the Angus burger, AVOID!

Thanks to Serge at WhiskyFun for the image. For more distillery info and to see all Glenmorangie's had on the mission (and more to come this week), click HERE.

TASTING NOTES:

Reserved and gently oaky. Apples, chocolate covered raisins, sweet and woody with vanilla and some earty notes, tree bark.

Thin texture with flavours of hazelnuts, toasted almonds, very light coffee impressions with the freshness of orange peels. Oaky finish with a marmalade zestiness.

SUMMARY:

Oak influence rules here muffling the bitterness that could be louder. As much as I like whisky, and as much as I like tea, this is the plainest of teas. Likeable, standard. And where is the rum? In fact, where is the Glenmorangie?

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Malt Mission 2008 #277

Glenmorangie Burgundy Wood Finish
Highland Single Malt Whisky
43% abv
£27

Part of the line of wood finishes from Glenmorangie that was discontinued in 2007 and replaced with newly packaged line of finishes with fancy names (Nectar d'or, Lasanta, Quinta Ruban, to be tasted later on the mission), this whisky matured in American oak casks for 10 years and then received second maturation in French oak barriques that held Cote d'or Burgundy.

TASTING NOTES:

Soft with cedar and enormous fruit. Full fruit basket, hold the bananas. Grapefruits, oranges, plums, red apples. Warm buttered crumpets, toasty.

Harmonious, major chords, sweet fruit, dry oak, faint vanilla, juicy maltiness. Rich and very drinkable

SUMMARY:

Quite delicious with an excellent nose. Easy drinking and satisfying density. Not overly complex but full, rounded, and well constructed.

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Malt Mission 2007 #169

Glenmorangie Margaux Cask Finish, 1987
Highland Single Malt Whisky
46% abv
£190
$550(USD)

Only 3,551 to 3,588 (conflicting info) of these babies were released around this time last year. Distillate from 1987 was filled into ex-bourbon casks and in 2004 the whisky was transfered into 10 ex-Margaux wine casks for two additional years of maturation / finishing / wood management / ACE-ing... whatever.

Everyone seems to have their own term for this process. Why? I imagine it is partly a well-intentioned attempt to clarify just what the process is, but this has not been the effect, I can assure you. I also imagine this is because distillers recognise that a certain stigma had built around the term 'finish' and wanted to reclaim the process in their own terms. What has happened is a further confusion of consumers. The most common question I receive when running whisky tastings, working in whisky shops, or answering emails of friends and readers is, "What is this finish business all about?" Everyone's natural instinct is suspicion. Our natural aversion to feeling like we are being taken advantage of or that we are being subjected to a marketing 'trick' has turned many people away from whiskies that have been finished, undergone secondary maturation, been ACE-ed, etc. I have tried on several occasions on this blog, as well as at tastings and on the floor in various retail capacities, to dispel this myth as much as is realistic and/or honest.

At Bruichladdich, they call the process ACE-ing, "additional cask enhancement". At some other distilleries they simply call it secondary maturation. Glenmorangie and others have called it 'wood finishing.' I received an email from Billy Walker, a 30-year veteran in the whisky industry, former MD of Burn Stewart Distillers, and current Master Blender and MD of BenRiach Distillery Co. Ltd. He had a few things to add about his company's wood management (I tried three of their tasty new finishes HERE). He writes,

"As always, it was interesting to read your take on 'finishes': at BenRiach our preference is to call this 'wood management'.

'Finishes' will fulfill the Distiller's objective only if the malt whisky which is chosen is of the highest quality. At BenRiach we have used a number of different cask styles to determine how The BenRiach interacts with various cask styles and during the process we have audited the progress of these casks on a monthly basis. This has given us a comprehensive insight into the 'wood management' of these various styles of oak cask.

Our objective at BenRiach is to take top quality whisky (12 - 15 years)and craft bespoke expressions with an extended flavour profile landscape: our motivation is driven solely by the pursuit of excellence: and 'unlocking the secrets' to our growing fan base."

This sentiment is not uncommon. So please don't be afraid of finishes. Most distillers who have pursued the technique of finishing do so to explore the flavour possibilities in pursuit of better and better single malt whiskies.

So that is enough from me this week about "finishing", the term I will use for this process from now on for the benefit of clarity. If folks in the industry want to confuse consumers, that is their business. In my little corner of the whisky web, I hope to clarify things for consumers. The wide world of whisky can be intimidating enough without constant semantic disagreement and debate (vatted, blended, pure; ACE, wood management, secondary maturation, wood finishing, etc.)

I was lucky enough to attend the launch of this product in the UK, Spetember 20, 2006. The original retail price for the 800 allocated bottles for the UK was £220, but this has obviously been lowered by whisky retailers as it was quickly realised that although rare, 18 years old, and of relation to a posh wine, the price tag was scaring off too many potential customers. Chateau Margaux is one of the most famous and highly regarded of all Bordeaux chateaux. Each bottle is presented in a "comtemporary display case, seated on a black plinth, hand numbered and signed by Dr Bill Lumsden." The folks at Royal Mile Whiskies, in all their wit, have written on their website, "the packaging will appeal to diamond thieves."

For more distillery info and other Glenmorangies had on the mission, click HERE.

TASTING NOTES:

Big snowballs of flavour, but it slowly melts into its component parts. Fruits, both real and candied, tangerines, peaches, lemons and pineapple juice. Baked goods, both from the oven and from backstage at a Rolling Stones concert, coffee cake, butter tarts, quality tobacco and damp marijuana. Lots of childhood homemade ice cream sundae supplies: hot fudge, marshmallow spread, chocolate and nuts. Wonderfully appetising.

Big impact of succulent wine notes, tobacco again, raisins and pepper. Crazy and unusual mouthfeel, effervescent, stimulating, very enjoyable. Spice and rye bread, berries and cream. Water helps unlock this beauty's secrets. Herbal-homeopathic-remedies, citrus, and dry oak through the finish. Long lingering oak.

SUMMARY:

Big (again), inspiring dram; I couldn't write fast enough. Big flavours, great depth and supple mouthfeel. Fruit, vanilla and pepper mark the Glenmorangie style and the wine, sweets, and toasty sherry-style notes from the Margaux are an outstanding accompaniment. Evidence that Margaux and light, elegant whiskies go well (Isle of Arran have since released a Margaux finish). Deep wallet? Buy one before they are gone. You can drink the bottle and put your favourite teddy bear in the container. The rest of us look forward to being invited over for a dram.

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Malt Mission 2007 #168

Glenmorangie Port Wood Finish
Highland Single Malt Whisky
43% abv
£28
$58.15(CAD)
$60(USD)

We had a sherry cask-finish Glenmorangie yesterday, and today we'll have the port finish. In scotch whisky maturation today, casks that once held sherry or bourbon are most commonly used, but before the 1930s distillers would use (almost) any cask they could get their hands on (port, wine, madeira, sardines, olives... etc.). They were also known to line their casks with molasses and other such things to add colour and flavour. This doesn't happen anymore.

Port is sweet fortified wine from the Douro river valley in Portugal. Although other countries produce a similar copycat product, in Europe and in Canada 'Port' can only refer to the fortified wine product from Portugal. Port is basically wine fortified with a bit of brandy or distilled grape spirit added and then matured in casks. When these emptied casks are used for scotch whisky maturation, they usually impart a pinkish or ruby colour to the whisky.

Many people have the misconception that 'finishes' are a cheap marketing gimmick in the world of malt whisky. This is not necessarily the case. As I have posted before and as I said yesterday, the idea of finishes or secondary maturations was re-introduced in modern times by Glenmorangie (and Balvenie... 12yo is "Double Wood"), a single malt whisky that is almost all matured in first fill ex-bourbon casks. To impart different flavour profiles, the distillers decided to attempt secondary maturations after 10-ish years to see what different characteristics could be added to an already enjoyable and popular whisky.

It must be understood that not all casks mature the same way and not all casks (about 5-10% on average) of maturing stocks at any given distillery are intended for release as a component of their single malt. The rest goes to blending. At Glenmorangie, the percentage released as singles is MUCH higher than it was before the finishes range was introduced (around 70%). As we know, standard blends are typically cheaper, easier to drink or mix, and exhibit less pronounced character; they are designed to appeal to the masses and sell in volume. If distillers could use some of these maturing stocks and make them tasty enough to be bottled as single malts then why shouldn't they do it? More different expressions for us to try and more money for them. Sounds reasonable to me.

Additionally, spanish oak casks that once held sherry are about 10 times more expensive that bourbon casks and still significantly more expensive than wine or wine spirit casks. Sherry casks add flavour, texture, and, most importantly in the world of finishing, colour. But if a more affordable oak was available that did a similar thing, wouldn't it be wise to explore that option? So everyone is, from Arran to Tullibardine and blends including Famous Grouse and Grant's.

The problem arises when distilleries, especially ones that come into new hands, end up releasing half a dozen finishes a year that are obviously masking whisky that has not matured well. I can think of one distillery in particular that has really hurt its reputation in recent years by doing just this. The neat wooden boxes seem to help sell the stuff, though! For a new or young distillery to do this makes financial sense because the first decade+ can be very tough for new distilleries. Isle of Arran just had their first year in the black since 1995, Bruichladdich rides a fine line between red and black every year, the owners of Tullibardine have developed a beer and a shopping complex to help the distillery remain financially viable, and Edradour is greatly helped by a much-visited tourist facility and shop.

Glenmorangie is neither new nor in financial trouble. But they have always kept their casks close to home, trading VERY little with other distillers (generally a normal practice... for blending purposes). They put their own malt in their delicious blend, Bailie Nichol Jarvie. So we can safely assume that their journey down the road of wood finishes is motivated by the pursuit of excellent new flavours and sustained by increased revenue. As long as the stuff tastes great, can we really blame them?

HERE is a piece from The Scotch Blog on the impact of wood in finishes. This bottling we're tasting today has been discontinued. Its new incarnation is two years older and called "Quinta Ruban". For more distillery info and other Glenmorangies had on the mission, click HERE.

TASTING NOTES:

I don't often mention colour, but this one does indeed have a pinkish hue, light rosé wine. Quite fruity, with a dairy element, too. Like a cheese plate with grapes and such. There is a coastal element in here, too. Salt, capers, and creamy Greek yogurt.

Toffee and vanilla with a firm mouthfeel. Lime gelato, buttery fudge, and a little bitterness like apple peels that controls the sweetness and adds a pleasant oakiness as well. Rosemary-type flavour is faint through a medium long finish that is like a cheese board... I mean, the actual board after cheese and cheese wax and grapes and crackers have been all over it.

SUMMARY:

The perfumed, bourbon-y spiciness that is so typical of Glenmorangie is really masked by the port influence. A good thing if we want to try something quite different from this distillery, a bad thing if we LIKE Glenmorangie and want to experience it accented by port (or whatever). Overall, the flavours are pleasant and in good balance, and certainly worth trying. However, I would not recommend this for someone new to whisky.

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Malt Mission 2007 #167

Glenmorangie Sherry Wood Finish
Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky
43% abv
£28
$58.15(CAD)
$60(USD)


The folks at Glenmorangie are seen as pioneers of the 'wood finish' trend that has come to the world of whisky over the past decade plus. For more than 20 years, Dr. Bill Lumsden and his team at Glenmorangie have been studying the behaviour of oak from seed to cask, with an obvious focus on the wood's effect on whisky in maturation.

This is part of the old wood finishes range (burgundy, madeira, port, sherry) that has been replaced in recent months by a new trio of finishes. Port is now called "Quinta Ruban", sherry finish is "Lasanta", and a Sauternes finish called "Nectar d'Or" joins the range as well. They are all priced differently, unlike the old wood finish line. If you are getting nostalgic, go shopping; not for collecting or investment, purposes but because you wont be paying £22 for the 10 yo(now known as "The Original") for much longer, and the old finishes are likely to be seen at clearout prices at supermarkets and booze-chains here in the UK. The standard LCBO price is actually pretty good, too.

The new wood finish trio comes with entirely new packaging. I quite like it, but to each their own. This is all part of Glenmorangie's first ever global brand and marketing strategy headed up by their ambitious owners (since 2004), Louis Vuitton/Moet Hennesey(LVMH). The brand has been #1 in the UK for many years and now wants to crack the top 3 single malt brands globally, seizing the emerging markets in Russia and China, in particular. They have always fared well in Scotland and at Duty Free (Cellar 13, Traditional, etc.) and with the quality of the new drops I tried at recent whisky fairs and at Duty Free in Edinburgh this past weekend, Glenmorangie's new look and campaign will certainly make an impact.

We will be saying farewell to this vanishing line by having three Glenmorangie wood finishes over the next 3 days. For more distillery info and other Glenmorangies had on the mission, click HERE.

TASTING NOTES:

Sweet barley/nuts with a delicious bourbon oak vanilla perfume effect that is typical of Glenmorangie. Apricots and chocolate covered raisins. The sherry balances some appetizing sourness against the sweetness. Very appetizing and showing a lot of depth.

Soft and rich, some marzipan, but it is really cocoa and toasty sherry oak that lead with this whisky. Deep and extremely satisfying. The flavours last and last with slow development, turning wonderfully salty towards the very end.

SUMMARY:

This is my mate Ran's favourite of these wood finishes from Glenmorangie (we spent part of an evening tasting the range in Bennets pub in Edinburgh a couple of years ago) and today I would be willing to say that it was mine, too. Sexy, charming and rich, the kind of man every woman wants to bring home... or vice versa.

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Malt Mission 2007 #122

Glenmorangie 10
Highland Single Malt Whisky
40% abv
£25
$48.15(CAD)
$40(USD)

Hard to believe it took over 120 Malt Missions to finally taste Glenmorangie. Sure, we had one at a tasting in Canada (HERE), but that doesn't really count as part of the Malt Mission proper. There is a huge whisky world out there and I hope to tick 'em off one at a time.

Glenmorangie is very proud to boast the tallest stills in the industry measuring in at 5.1m. They can also claim responsibility for the various wood finishes on shelves these days as they pioneered the resurgence of the method over a decade ago. In fact, the wood management at Glenmorangie is among the most strict in the whole whisky world and is the product of 20 years of ongoing research into slow-growing trees and techniques of air drying the oak of particular trees from particular parts of the US, used for particular bourbons before being used to mature the spicy, vanilla rich whisky that we all know as Glenmorangie. It is the biggest selling malt in Scotland and is slowly creeping up on Glenfiddich for the No.1 spot in the UK.

Glenmorangie comes from the part of Scotland that, for me, makes the tastiest malt whiskies. The stretch between Inverness and Wick includes (or included) closed distilleries Ben Wyvis and Millburn, demolished distilleries Glen Mhor and Glen Albyn, The Dalmore, Teaninich, Balblair, Brora(closed) and Clynelish, and Old Pulteney. I realised this some time ago when on the Black Isle it occurred to me that my desert island malts were all within reach in either direction and that there was nowhere else in Scotland I would rather be for sunrise, scenery, and single malts. On another personal note, I will never forget spending a terribly depressing and lonely Christmas(2003) with a good friend and a1-litre bottle of Glenmorangie 10. Spirits were certainly lifted.

Tasting notes from my mate JM. All whiskies Jed has tasted for the mission can be found HERE.

TASTING NOTES:

Orange rind, marmalade, bitter green grapes. Dry Chardonnay with hint of ocean air and lots of vanilla oakiness.

Heavy velvety mouth feel that doesn't coat, it reminds me of 2% milk or thin turkey gravy. Light and sweet, marshmallow spread (Fluff). Now wood and some smoke, lasting and tangy like hard cheese (parmesan).

SUMMARY:

Very easy to drink, none of the more offensive whisky qualities that may repel some drinkers. Definitely encourages another glass...

Back to Dr. Whisky talking now, Glenmorangie is a spectacular whisky that should never be overlooked or taken for granted. Being one of the very few malts that is made from hard spring water, coastal and lightly peated, aged in only the finest bourbon barrels, Glenmorangie is a unique and sophisticated whisky that will equally satisfy at noon or at midnight. The Artisan Cask expression is currently at the LCBO but has been discontinued so do try some (if you can afford it) if you haven't already.

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North American Adventure #5

Cask Strength Whisky Tasting (and Morwenna's Birthday)
Saturday March 31
Ian Brooks' place
Toronto
7.30pm - late

Hosted a whisky tasting on Saturday, as we try to do every time we are here in Toronto. A good time was had by all and not a drop went unappreciated. Very happy that so many people were able to come and that everyone had a good time, including the birthday girl and her family. I have received many emails of thanks, and we thank all of you for coming and taking part in the magic of communal spirit consumption.

I should note that there are no professional whisky drinkers in the group, a few aspiring nerds, and a few guests who took some time to warm up to whisky. This is a welcome challenge to Kristin and I and I think it is safe to say that we can now add a few more names to the growing list of converts in our whiskevangelism. I also like to note that despite what marketers tell us in the whisky industry, the room was evenly split between guys and dolls. AND, most importantly, more women liked what we are told are "manly" Islay whiskies than men. Give 'er!

The tasting notes of each expression were noted on a pad of yellow legal paper that went around the room. I thank all the contributors and apologise if I do not use every note. I will credit the notes where credit is due.

Kilchoman New Spirit (50ml)
Islay
63.5%
abv £5

This is new-make barley spirit, something that most people never get to try and it is absolutely fantastic that Kilchoman has decided to release new spirit. Legally, it cannot be called 'whisky' until it has aged in cask for 3 years. This is the way whisky would have been consumed 200 years ago, with no time wasted on aging, just drinking it right off the still.

Kilchoman is a new distillery and has been distilling whisky for just under two years (began in June 2005). The distillery is one of the few that will be able to claim that every step of the whisky making process is taken on site and it is the first new Islay distillery in 124 years.

TASTING NOTES

Salty fish water, dates-in-boiled-oats kind of sweetness, pear flavoured water, pissed-out fire.

"Tastes like a young Laphroaig" - Kristin Cavoukian

"Peardrops? Bollocks!!!" Jordan

SUMMARY

Everyone was very impressed with just how drinkable this stuff was in spite of its strength, but were also surprised by the softness of flavours, a gentle sweetness unexpected by most, from 'immature' spirit. Everyone loved the smokiness. We all look forward to great things from this new distillery.

Chivas Regal 12yo (1750ml)
Blended Scotch Whisky
40% abv
$90.65(CAD)

In 1836 James Chivas became a partner in an Aberdeen-based grocer and wine merchant and in 1857 Chivas Brothers was born. Chivas Regal was their flagship blend from the 1890s and was finding great success on North American shores. In Canada the brand earned much admiration from whisky distillers and in 1949 Seagram's bought the family of blends. The company subsequently acquired old and built new distilleries in the 20th century.

The blend is said to contain a high malt content of 40%, mainly made up of Speyside malts (Glenlivet, Longmorn, and Strathisla and for sure, and maybe Allt-a-Bhainne, Benriach, Braeval, Caperdonich, Glen Grant and Glen Keith)


The CoolBrands Council (!) named Chivas the UK's coolest whisky brand(2006).

TASTING NOTES:

Vanilla, cut grass, sweet and malty. Applesauce. Mango lassie.

"First time having it and I am pleasantly surprised. The box always gave me the impression that the whisky would taste like dust and 'English Leather', but it doesn't!" - Matthew Cowley

Many commented how it tasted really light later in the night, but this was no doubt because by that point we had already enjoyed 4 cask-strength whiskies.

SUMMARY:

A surprise to many who had stigmatized this whisky in their minds, Chivas Regal proved to be satisfying and widely appealing, although it was the last whisky bottle to be emptied on the night. Mind you, this could be because we had a 1.75L bottle...

North British 1991 (14yo)
Signatory Cask Strength Grain Whisky
53.3% abv
£33

It is not often that one gets to taste new make spirit and single cask grain whisky on the same night. Adding to the experience is the fact that this particular grain was aged in Californian ex-sherry casks; extremely unusual.

This distillery provides grain for many of the biggest blends(Vat 69, Dewar's, Chivas, Famous Grouse, Isle of Skye, and more), and produces 1.25 million litres a week(!). One of seven remaining grain distilleries in Scotland, and the only one left in Edinburgh.

TASTING NOTES

Honey ice cream, sour grapes, dying flowers, sulphur and sewage.
Forget who said these, "sauna", "library dust", "dirt, earth", "sucking on a tree branch"

"Blood flavoured liquorice" - Brian Kobayakawa

"It makes me feel like I'm going to grow a big funnel/smokestack out of the front of my face--out of which I'll spew fluffy clouds" - Jessie Perlitz

"Matches dropped into a grainfield sparking a grassfire" - Jenn Gaudette

SUMMARY

The "off-notes" (namely sewage and matches) polarized the room. Absolutely loved by many, enjoyed by most, and hated by very few. A highly unusual whisky that was infinitely interesting. Very memorable, and a gorgeous bottle that was highly coveted by the tasters.

Glenmorangie Traditional (100 proof)
Highland Single Malt Whisky
57.2% abv
£45

Glenmorangie is the best selling whisky in the UK and is pronounced, contrary to the belief of some cocky tourists I met in Scotland two years ago, "glen-moren-jee". Not that I was nit-picking, but they were just so obnoxiously pretentious and I insist on knocking the wind out of anyone who propagates the myth of snobbery that surrounds whisky enjoyment.

Glenmorangie is very proud to boast the tallest stills in the industry measuring in at 5.1m. They can also claim responsibility for the various wood finishes as they pioneered the resurgence of the method in recent years. In fact, the wood management at Glenmorangie is among the most strict in the whole whisky world and is the product of 20 years of ongoing research into slow growing trees and techniques of air drying the oak of particular trees from particular parts of the US, used for particular bourbons before being used to mature the spicy, vanilla rich whisky that we all know as Glenmorangie.

TASTING NOTES

Fresh mint, fennel, vanilla pods, rooibos tea. An effervescent mouthfeel that becomes nicely oily with synthetic orange flavour and white pepper.

"Coating of fur on the tongue." - anon.

"High octane version of the standard 10yo" - Jordan

"Aerosol hairpspray from 1972" - Allison B

"I just really like it" - Brian Kobayakawa, Jillian Rogin

SUMMARY

Dram of the night for many folks, myself included, this is powerful but elegant stuff with great balance of wood and whisky character. Water adds to the flavour experience and increases the beauty of the mouthfeel. Dig it.

Aberlour A'bunadh, Batch 17
Speyside Single Malt Whisky
60.2%
£32

Taking it's name from the Gaelic for 'the origin', A'bunadh is a batch released whisky that is a vatting of different ages of exclusively oloroso sherry cask matured Aberlour whisky. When we visited the distillery a couple of years ago, we were told that the inspiration for this expression of Aberlour came from a bottle that was discovered in the walls of one of the distllery buildings. It was tested and it was decided to try and create a similar style of Aberlour, traditional and from an era when most distilleries were exclusively aging in sherry casks, and bottle it in an old-style apothecary bottle with a wood stopper and wax seal. This series has been a great success and is currently on Batch 18.

Founded in 1879 by James Fleming, a fire in 1898 destroyed most of the distillery. It was insured and rebuilt at an incredible cost. But it was worth it as the place is still stunningly gorgeous. The distillery remained water powered (it is located at a meeting point of the Lour and Spey rivers) until 1960 and was purchased by its current owners, Pernod Ricard(Chivas whisky family) in 1974.

TASTING NOTES

Fire. Rich with cloves, cocoa, and loads of oloroso sherry. Hot. I need water.

"All I can say is smoooooooth. yum yum." - Joanna White

"Chocolatey, nougat-y, dessert-y smooch" - anon.

"Tasty, a dark cave with a monster lurking inside" - Chuck Erlichman

"Not unlike drinking a brick." - Zack

"Not so subtle." - Jill R.

"It burns. Olive and chocolate. and burn." - Brian K.

SUMMARY

Another that was hit and miss. A whisky that benefits from being 4th in a tasting. Still too spirit-hot to many, but undeniably full of rich sherry and all the good stuff that comes with it. Another cool bottle, to boot.

Bowmore 7yo
SMWS 3.123 "jowl-shaking"
Single Cask Single Malt Whisky
61.6% abv

Always good to end a tasting with something fiery and smoky, and this little beast from Bowmore certainly lived up to those expectations.

Kristin and I used to be on the SMWS tasting panel that considers the whiskies from individual casks in an attempt to determine which ones are good enough to be bottled by the Scotch Malt Whisky Society. We learned a great deal from the experienced noses at the table and are very grateful to have had the opportunity to take part. Young Bowmores have been very popular in recent years at the society and with independent bottlers. See Malt Mission 18 or Malt Mission 4 for more information on Bowmore and notes on other expressions of this whisky.

TASTING NOTES

"Burning love... and plastic and war and turpenitine" - Zack

"This is the one... send the rest back. ISLAY FOREVER" - Kristin C.

"Ashtray mouth; if you have a need for it, this is where you get it." Allison

"Smokey, peaty, with a hint of maple and A535"

SUMMARY

Smokeheads loved this treat, but they were easy to convince. It is the rest of the room that found something to like in it that was most impressive. Slightly antiseptic in its numbing affect. But lots of character for such a young'n. bowMORE.

OVERALL SUMMARY:

Much fun. Thanks again, all.

Most abstract note:
"LIKE FIREWORKS WITH THE DOPPLER EFFECT"
runners up: "Not unlike drinking a brick", "Rip yer bitch-pants off"

Most Canadian note/comment:
"A HINT OF MAPLE AND A535"
runner up "No, I've got a couple beer"

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